Menorca - The Way of the Horses
With pirates regularly attacking from the sea, watchman used to ride the coastal road on horseback to protect the island. Nowadays, the 185 km trail is pristine, virtually untouched and used for hiking, trail running and even mountain biking. It is narrow, technical, extremely rocky, constantly challenging but frequently beautiful.
Day 1: Cala Mitjana
It's just over a year since I was diagnosed with advanced heart block, with the electric signal to my heart, intermittently not getting through, which lowered my heart rate to below 30 beats per minute. A pacemaker was immediately fitted and what followed was nearly a year of battling doctors to try and get them to take me seriously, coupled with a dangerous thrombosis at the site of the implant just above the heart. Fortunately, after remaining proactive in finding cardiologists who would actually help me, I appear to have turned a corner, received more professional help and, consequently, my fitness is slowly returning.
To mark this change in fortune, and with my bike guiding work taking me to Menorca, I decided to ride the challenging Cami de Cavalls mtb route in 3 days, and to take on the hardest of the 3 versions, which follows the Cami de Cavalls for the maximum time that is feasibly possible.
Day 1: Ciutadella to Binissafúller (73 km / 1224 m) - After the initial tarmacked roads that leave Ciutadella, the trail follows the coastline south to the first of many lighthouses, Far de Cap d'Artrux. Despite being fairly flat, the cami here is not easy to ride due to the endless rocks and boulders. Along the south coast, the route becomes more undulating, rising and falling to several beautiful coves and beaches. At times, it is necessary to negotiate sandy beach sections, requiring a totally different skill set to those utilised for the steep, rocky ascents and descents. Unless you are an exceptionally talented Mountain bike rider, expect to be pushing your bike up and down several sections. Highlights during this section include Cala en Turqueta, Cala Galdana and, my personal favourite, the isolated aqua waters of Cala Mitjana. When I reached my final destination, at the Agroturismo, Hotel Rural Biniati, close to the islands small airport, I did not expect such a warm reception from the Italian host Cristiano and his Columbian partner Maricela and their daughter. I was invited to share a place at their family dinner table and truly felt the warmth of their outstanding Latino hospitality.
 Day 2: Binibéquer Vell |  |
Day 2: Binissafúller to Es Mercadal (78 km / 1261 m) - The first section to Maó is fairly fast and perfect to rediscover the legs. Highlights include a fisherman's village called Binibèquer Vell, the great views of the lighthouse atop Illa l'Aire island and the Alcafar defence tower. Once past the capital and port of Mao, considered the second largest natural harbour in Europe, the trail enters the Albufera des Grau Natural Park, declared a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve in 1993. Wetlands and pristine hills, teeming with birdlife abound, throwing up several demanding climbs and descents on loose and steep terrain. A small detour took me to the Far de Favàritx Lighthouse, the approach marked by dark rocks and the scarcity of vegetation. It was still early November but it was surprising how few people were on the trail, and how quiet the whole island had become. Interestingly, there are about 200 wooden gates along the Cami de Cavalls, but despite this, they never really seriously interrupt the flow of the riding.
 Day 2: Mermaid Mô, Mao |  Day 2: Alcafar Defence Tower |
Day 3: Es Mercadal to Ciutadella (67 km / 1223 m) - A heavy storm was predicted in the afternoon and so I decided to avoid Section 6, the hardest and most technical part of the Cami de Cavalls. The whole of the central north coast is a Special Protection Area (SPA) and among the best preserved with a distinction for birdlife and characterised by the terracotta red rocks and the yellow sand. Here lies my favourite section of the whole route, Section 7, from Els Alocs to Algaiarrens, a track very reminiscent of many of my favourite rides in Australia. Sweeping single track wind up and down through the forest, with occasional glimpses of crystal clear water. The route continues with an exhilarating descent from the cliff down numerous wooden barrelled steps to the virgin beach of Cala Pilar below. The terrain finally changes back to the stony, rocky track that is a feature along the west and southern coasts, before finally arriving back into the citadel of Ciutadella.
 Day 3: North Coast |  |
Without doubt, I would highly recommend this route to any mountain bikers who want a solid technical challenge and a sweet dose of adventure. Several options abound, from route difficulty to the daily distance covered. I used the Cami de Cavalls 360 company to book my accommodation and to transport my luggage between hotels. They were excellent in every respect, with regular communication, excellent routes, maps and detailed information on all the stages. Having not ridden a mountain bike very much in the last 9 years, I can honestly say that this experience has inspired me to plan more mtb adventures in the upcoming months.
Day 2: Nature Parc of S'Albufera des Grau
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