Looking for Winter Training?
Look no further than Majorca's Cycling Winter Wonderland
The Jewel in Majorca's Crown - The S bends of Sa Calobra
Can there be a better place to ride a bike than Majorca? This is my second visit to the Balearic Island, situated 200 miles east of Valencia on the Spanish mainland. From my personal experience, I would think the answer is probably not. A variety of riding from road to mountain bike (they even have a velodrome!), extremely well maintained road surfaces, quiet roads, respectful drivers, lung-busting mountain climbs, breath-taking descents, coastal rollercoasters and a climate that begs you to ‘get amongst it’. I’ve only ridden in the winter months of November and December and this time offers daytime temperatures of between 15 and 25 degrees and quiet roads with virtually no tourist traffic. To be fair, I’ve only had a taste of what is on offer but I can truly say that the biggest danger is riding too much, so is the lure of the potent elixir of this riding utopia.
Day 1 – Misty Mountain and Coastal Ride – 101 km - 2,000 m
My first major ride on the island took me from my base in Santa Ponsa, in the south west, to the pretty towns of Calvia and es Capdella to the north and up the switchbacks to the Galilea lookout and down into the Puigpunyent valley before a second climb to Esporles. By this time, I was submerged in cloud, mist and rain and the descent was chilly but it wasn’t long before another climb warmed the bones and I was quickly reaching for the zip of the spray jacket. The northern coast came into view and, despite the low cloud, the views were priceless. I turned south west towards the town of Banyalbufar and followed a wide road that hugged the coastline and seemed to offer significantly more downhill than ascending. I glided round the sweeping corners and, as I progressed, the cliffs encroached on the road and, just as it seemed as if this towering rock would swallow the road ahead, I disappeared into several tunnels, emerging the other side unscathed. The landscape had changed and was now far more rough and rugged. A couple of switchbacks later and I was again descending at break-neck speed along slightly narrower, but incredibly exhilarating tarmac. Before long, I was sailing through Andratx and the subsequent port before making my way back to Santa Ponsa.
My first major ride on the island took me from my base in Santa Ponsa, in the south west, to the pretty towns of Calvia and es Capdella to the north and up the switchbacks to the Galilea lookout and down into the Puigpunyent valley before a second climb to Esporles. By this time, I was submerged in cloud, mist and rain and the descent was chilly but it wasn’t long before another climb warmed the bones and I was quickly reaching for the zip of the spray jacket. The northern coast came into view and, despite the low cloud, the views were priceless. I turned south west towards the town of Banyalbufar and followed a wide road that hugged the coastline and seemed to offer significantly more downhill than ascending. I glided round the sweeping corners and, as I progressed, the cliffs encroached on the road and, just as it seemed as if this towering rock would swallow the road ahead, I disappeared into several tunnels, emerging the other side unscathed. The landscape had changed and was now far more rough and rugged. A couple of switchbacks later and I was again descending at break-neck speed along slightly narrower, but incredibly exhilarating tarmac. Before long, I was sailing through Andratx and the subsequent port before making my way back to Santa Ponsa.
Sunset over Santa Ponsa
Day 2 – Palma to Mount Soller – 129 km – 1,800 m
I took the coastal road from Santa Ponsa, past the party town (or winter ghost town) of Magalluf to Genova on the outskirts of Palma. I find it amazing that I can be on the fringes of a major city and feel like I’m still in the countryside. Here in Genova, I met my Airbnb host Peter. A mad Celtic fan (aren’t they all?), an ex golf pro, golf coach and the organiser of the Glasgow to Lisbon Charity bike ride in May 2017 to celebrate the 50th anniversary of Celtic's European Cup success in 1967. Peter guided me across the motorway and towards the road to Soller and the mountains that make Majorca the cycling paradise that draws in pro riders and teams from all over the world for their winter mountain training camps. I took the climb up Mt Soller, now a quiet road with motorised traffic travelling through the tunnel below. Like the majority of climbs on the island, Mt Soller offers a comfortable 6% average gradient for 7.3 km and 417 metres and is a pleasure to ride - the reward is an exciting descent down the other side to the old town of Soller and its adjacent port below.
I took the coastal road from Santa Ponsa, past the party town (or winter ghost town) of Magalluf to Genova on the outskirts of Palma. I find it amazing that I can be on the fringes of a major city and feel like I’m still in the countryside. Here in Genova, I met my Airbnb host Peter. A mad Celtic fan (aren’t they all?), an ex golf pro, golf coach and the organiser of the Glasgow to Lisbon Charity bike ride in May 2017 to celebrate the 50th anniversary of Celtic's European Cup success in 1967. Peter guided me across the motorway and towards the road to Soller and the mountains that make Majorca the cycling paradise that draws in pro riders and teams from all over the world for their winter mountain training camps. I took the climb up Mt Soller, now a quiet road with motorised traffic travelling through the tunnel below. Like the majority of climbs on the island, Mt Soller offers a comfortable 6% average gradient for 7.3 km and 417 metres and is a pleasure to ride - the reward is an exciting descent down the other side to the old town of Soller and its adjacent port below.
The beautiful town of Valldemossa
Day 3 – Valldemossa – Deia – Port de Valldemossa - Banyalbufar – es capdella – 163 km – 3,100 m
This day was the first of three rides I would do with other riders and turned out to be a sensational day of riding. I rode through the lower mountains to Puigpunyment to meet Heather and Andy, members from my workplace at Cadence Performance Cycling in Crystal Palace. The early morning chill was already abating with temperatures rising to around 17 degrees, as was to be the case every day. We quickly set off for the climb out of the town, the Coll des Grau (3 km, 214 m, 6%), turning right through the beautiful town of Esporles and then on to the climb to the scenic town of Valldemossa. We all decided it would carry on along the coast to Deia, again being rewarded with splendid views over the north coast of the island. A few quick selfies and we backtracked up the climb and were soon descending again to the port of Valldemossa. After coffee and cakes, we returned up this most stunning road, passing sports climbers belaying in the sun-baked road - maybe next time I will climb here, another of my outdoor passions. I left Heather and Andy so I could return home along the coast road I had ridden on Day 1. In the sunshine, it was even more stunning. At Andratx, I turned back inland, climbed back to es Capdella and down to Calvia and Santa Ponsa. The best day so far!
This day was the first of three rides I would do with other riders and turned out to be a sensational day of riding. I rode through the lower mountains to Puigpunyment to meet Heather and Andy, members from my workplace at Cadence Performance Cycling in Crystal Palace. The early morning chill was already abating with temperatures rising to around 17 degrees, as was to be the case every day. We quickly set off for the climb out of the town, the Coll des Grau (3 km, 214 m, 6%), turning right through the beautiful town of Esporles and then on to the climb to the scenic town of Valldemossa. We all decided it would carry on along the coast to Deia, again being rewarded with splendid views over the north coast of the island. A few quick selfies and we backtracked up the climb and were soon descending again to the port of Valldemossa. After coffee and cakes, we returned up this most stunning road, passing sports climbers belaying in the sun-baked road - maybe next time I will climb here, another of my outdoor passions. I left Heather and Andy so I could return home along the coast road I had ridden on Day 1. In the sunshine, it was even more stunning. At Andratx, I turned back inland, climbed back to es Capdella and down to Calvia and Santa Ponsa. The best day so far!
 Heather and Andy at Deia |  |
Day 4 – Palma –Cala Pi – Llucmajor – Campos – Manacor – Algaida – Palma – 216 km – 1,300 m
The next day, I teamed up with Dean, my son-in-law, and we set off early on a bright, crisp morning to meet the mad Celtic supporter in Palma. Peter was keen to clock up the miles for the Rapha Festive 500 and had planned a full day in the flatlands of Majorca. After a brisk 20 km ride (enough time for Dean to inform me he hadn't ridden a bike in 2 years!), we arrived to find Peter fixing a puncture. We were soon riding south east after slowly negotiating Palma's coastal one way system. After a comfort stop, Dean and I set off to climb a steady but long gradient, unaware that Peter had taken time to clip in and had already been dropped. Peter had earlier told us not to wait and to meet him at the second coffee shop down the road. At the point we were meant to rendevous, we mistakenly took a wrong turn and ended up in Cala Pi with no coffee shop in sight. We turned back but on reaching the first coffee shop, Peter was long gone. We pushed on, but somehow missed the second coffee shop. A quick call and we found out that Peter was just 3 km away from the town of Campos. Dean and I mistakenly took a longer route via Llucmajor and eventually met Peter in Campos. We refuelled devouring a fantastic burger and chips while Peter circled the area, trying to clock up more kilometres for Strava's Rapha 500 challenge and make up for lost time. Feeling a bit guilty, I jumped on the front and drove us up to Felanitx and on to Manacor along some extremely straight road and making up for some of the lost time. At Manacor, we decided to return to Palma via the service road that follows the motorway. These roads are really quiet, and as a result, the ride became much more social and our pace leisurely. After drinks and chocolate cake at Algaida, we made it back to Palma, with the sun setting in the surrounding hills. The final stretch from Palma to Santa Ponsa was a bit worrying as Dean and I needed to share my lights. After passing a police car we decided the best way to finish the ride was on the bike paths. Despite his lack of riding, Dean finished the day strongly, 215 km obviously not a problem for someone who is a natural athlete. Furthermore, mention must go to Wheels, who delivered Dean a Merckx Sallanches 105 carbon fibre road bike from the other side of the island at Can Picafort for a price that would make it hard for most people to justify bringing their own bike.
Sa Calobra
Day 5 – Palma – Mt Soller – Tunel Puig Major – Sa Calobra – Palma – 186 km – 3,600 m
This was my Queen stage - a trip to the infamous Sa Calobra hairpin bends. I took the same route to Soller as I did on Day 2 except this time I took the turn up the biggest mountain in Majorca, the Puig Major. The climb was long (14.2 km and 821 m of vertical) with gradients averaging 8%. I eventually reached the tunnel, before descending to the Gorg Blau lake and then climbing the Coll de Cal Reis to the top of Sa Calobra. Before me was a single winding road, designed by Italian engineer Antonio Parietti, the road following the contours of the mountain and featuring 26 hairpin bends and a spiral bridge. The descent was truly sensational and after a short stop at the bottom I turned and made my way back up the Cat 1, 9.5 km climb with an average gradient of 7%. This time I made a few stops for photos but no photo seems to do the beauty of this place any justice. On the way back to the Puig Major tunnel, I picked up a couple of passengers, who pulled off at the top of the climb, leaving me to a 700 metre descent that seemed to continue forever. After ascending Mt Soller once more and clocking up 3500 metres of climbing, I finally arrived back in Santa Ponsa.
Embassament des Gorg Blau
Day 6 – Coastal Loop – 91 km – 1,800 m
For this day, I teamed up again with Dean, keen to show him the north west coastal road which is one of the jewels on the island. We climbed to Galilea through Puigpunyent and on to Banyalbufar before hitting the coastal descents. Once again, the riding was sensational and we felt impelled to take photos at a couple of the lookouts. At Andratx, we climbed back to the town of es Capdella and then on to Calvia and Santa Ponsa, Dean again showing amazing strength and endurance for someone who rarely rides nowadays.
 Dean enjoying the view from one of several lookouts |  |
Day 7 – Palma – Calvia Loop – 46 km – 650 m
Keen to get one more ride in before packing the bike for the flight back to London, I explored a road from Palma that Peter had pointed out a few days earlier. The road was surrounded by a military base but was completely devoid of any traffic. Like many of the roads in Majorca, the road zig-zagged up the mountain before snaking down the other side. I eventually descended into Calvia and back home. In total, I had covered 1000 km and 15,000 metres of climbing, a far cry from the numbers I would have achieved if I had stayed in London over the Christmas period. It is also true, that I could have easily ridden more, so is the joy and pleasure derived from riding around an island that offers extremely varied cycling terrain and incredible sunshine all year-round. I will certainly be returning again some day very soon! Look no further than Majorca for your next Winter Training Camp.
Goodbye Majorca - I'll be back!
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