Not just a Bike Race but a Journey of Discovery
Introduction
| The Mongolia Bike Challenge is an experience like no other. It is a distinctly unique and rare opportunity to race in a land frozen in the past, a land obsessed with an age over eight hundred years’ old, when Mongol Khan’s and their hordes ruled a fifth of the world with a lethal army no rival civilisation could resist. Mongolia remains trapped in an ancient time most of the western world has forgotten, as the society we are accustomed to, hurtles into a futuristic world of digital technology, dominated by laptops, iPhones, computer games, mass globilisation and atomic power. Seventy riders, from all corners of the globe, were to embark on a severely demanding journey, which would challenge physically and mentally but would ultimately forge bonds and friendships as enduring as Mongolian legend itself. |  Chinggis Khan Statue in Tsonjin Boldog |
Ulaanbaatar
Power Stations and Residential Housing stand side by side
Ulaanbaatar, the arrival city for all participants, acts like a smokescreen, a place of deception for what Mongolia is to reveal later to her newly arrived guests. The capital city, like a hospital patient who has awoken from a twenty year coma (the Democratic Revolution was in 1990), is rushing recklessly to catch up with the rest of the world. It is a city containing over half of Mongolia’s total population, and it is racing to be at the high table of the Modern World. Coal-fired power stations, built during Russian dominance, stand juxtaposition beside gers, more appropriate to the countryside while large modern summer houses rub shoulders with poverty ridden shacks. Even in September, the veil of pollution suffocates a city built within a valley and choking her residents. Nevertheless, the city appears destined to continue its quest to catch up with the rest of the world, despite the inherent cancer of over-development.
| The city of Ulaanbaatar, however, does harbour some hidden charms. Around seventeen cyclists embarked on a pre-race city tour with Byra, our Mongolian guide, and we were fortunate enough to experience what little remains of traditional Mongolian culture. A visit to the Gandantegchenling Buddhist Monastery, built in its present location in 1838, and spared from destruction by communist Russia, revealed the impressive Janraisig statue towering over 26 metres high and gilded in gold. Nine hundred monks continue to practise Buddha’s teaching and we witnessed several chanting from their ancient scripture. Other highlights included the Choijin Lama Temple Museum, showcasing 1904 architecture, and the main square complete with impressive statues of the great Khan’s, Chinggis, Ogedei and Kublai, as well as a central bronze statue of Damdin Sukhbaatar astride his horse, the hero of the 1921 Revolution. The final destination was the National Museum of Mongolia, which revealed, amongst many treasures, the highly impressive weaponry and costumes of the Mongol hordes, arguably the world’s greatest and most powerful historical army. |  Janraisig statue  Mongol Soldier |
The Race
The Mongolian Bike Ride unfolds in the Steppe region of the countryside, covering nearly nine hundred kilometres and 14,000 metres of climbing.
Day 3 ended with a long, tough 35 km climb
Landscape & Climate
The landscape is the dominant force and the dry, grass plains stretch infinitely in all directions, interrupted only by rugged hills and mountains. Even in the heat of battle, all riders would succumb to the immense nature and mind-blowing vastness of this incredible country.
Mongolia’s climate is harsh and even in September, significant temperature variations exist. Average temperatures range from -5 degrees at night to 22 degrees in the day and rain is common. The 2014 edition of the race was surely blessed in this regard. Despite two extremely cold mornings on the first two days, the weather was unseasonably hot (even peaking at 30 degrees on day four), much to the collective relief of the majority of the competitors, resulting in perfect riding conditions. Rainfall was almost non-existent, leaving competitors to concentrate on racing rather than self-preservation. Admittedly, night fall would be accompanied by a brisk, chill air and a cool wind on the final day was a reminder of how cold it could become.
Cows look on bemused
Mongolian People
| The Mongolian people were extremely welcoming and friendly. During the race, the Mongolian helpers were very accommodating, while the Mongolian riders rode with spirit, on bikes most of us would have been riding ten years ago, with heavy steel frames and v-brakes. As we passed by gers, families would smile and wave and shout words of encouragement. It was particularly refreshing to see young children playing outside together and chasing horses, cows and goats. Perhaps, this life of freedom is one our own children sorely miss. After the event, race helper Billy and his Mongolian friend, Oggy, took Pete Selkrig and myself to a traditional nomadic ger where we drank the local speciality, airag, made from fermented mare’s milk, an experience that I, and my tortured stomach, will surely struggle to forget in a hurry. |  Drinking airag in a nomadic ger |
Wild Takhi horses decide to take on the peloton
Fauna
| The fauna of Mongolia is unique to this area of Asia and provided some of the most memorable moments in the race. Large herds of wild Takhi horses are numerous in Eastern Mongolia and were often sighted in the grassy plains. One unforgettable moment occurred when a herd of Takhi horses charged across the lead group of riders, a moment no rider will ever forget. This was closely followed by a similarly large herd of antelope which crossed in front of me and Brazilian rider, Breno Bizinoto. Despite working hard to keep in contact with the front group ahead, we both turned to each other with the widest of grins, exclaiming that this was what racing in Mongolia was all about. A truly magic moment. Cows blocking the road were to become a common sight, as were goats and sheep. Birds of prey would circle above, perhaps sensing weakness in some of the riders below. Marmots and mice would frolic on the dusty roads, just disappearing into their underground burrows, moments before a 29er wheel would seemingly crush their tiny, fragile bodies. Strange cricket-like insects buzzed around riders as they made their endless journey across the Mongolian steppes. |  Breno (Brazil) was a regular accomplice during the race |
A sense of history and tradition was never too far away
International Family
The people involved in the Mongolian Bike Race, either as a rider, event or support crew were to become part of a large close-knit family. It didn’t matter if you were Cory Wallace (Canada), Nicholas Pettina (Italy), Luis Pasamontes(Spain) fighting for overall honours, a category podium chaser or a rider whose main intention was to merely to survive the seven day ordeal, we all had two main criteria in common. We love riding mountain bikes and we enjoy the adventure of travelling to far-flung places. The camaraderie between riders is perhaps one of the greatest attractions of this type of race. Some of my greatest mountain bike friends have been discovered in these races. Indeed, the bond shared by myself and riders who also competed at the Crocodile Trophy in Queensland, Australia in October 2013 is palpable. These included Cory Wallace, who was the single biggest reason for my participation in Mongolia; Peter Selkrig, a fifty-two year old racing machine, training partner and fellow 24-hour endurance racer in Australia; Kristof Roelandts and Hans Planckaert from Belgium and Jiri Krivanek and Radim Novotny from the Czech Republic. The bond and mutual respect is simply unbreakable.
 Belgium Racing Machines: Hans, Kristof & Christof On a number of days, I would be isolated from the fastest group, only to find support from others in a similar predicament. It is often said that you will find your physiological equal several times during a stage race and this event was to prove no exception. On a couple of days it was my sparring partner from the Crocodile Trophy, Kristof, at other times it was Portuguese rider Jose Monteiro, or Scotsman Alan Grant (who demonstrated his toughness by riding most of the race with a shattered thumb) and on a few occasions it was Breno from Brazil. Both Breno and I are 24 hour riders and we were able to pace ourselves effectively for long sections of the race. Without doubt, I will race with these guys again in the future. That is the beauty of stage racing; it is a wonderful family that can be found all over the world and our destinies are somehow intertwined. | Other riders I met and bonded with are far too numerous to mention but I will make special mention of a few. Christof Marien, from Belgium is one of the kindest people I have ever met. He is a sprinter by trade and has an illustrious racing history. A massive 110 kg of pure power, he would frequently lead trains of appreciative riders for long periods of time, often doing 90% of the work. A number of times, I was the direct beneficiary of his generosity, as the big man dished out endless pain to groups desperate to hold his wheel. Cursed by enormous ill-luck, he was the victim of numerous punctures and stomach problems and consequently, he would drop out of the first group and into the realm of the chasers. As fate would have it, on the final day he was to remain in the front group where he surely deserved to be, benefiting the likes of Cory Wallace and other elite riders.  Peter Selkrig (Australia) thinks he's posing for Vogue Magazine |
 Simon Usher (UK): all-round nice guy | Obviously, the elite riders are the stars of a stage race but the heroes can be found much further down the field. These guys spend far more time on the bike and have far less time to recover from a stage and prepare for the next. Of particular note, is Simon Usher, who crashed heavily on the second stage and broke two ribs. Amazingly, he rode the whole of the third stage, before being forced to withdraw with a punctured lung. At the final ceremony, he surprised everyone by turning up unexpectedly to be part of the final day celebrations, while continuing to smile and remain positive throughout. Unable to fly home, due to his condition, he ingeneously came up with the marvellous solution of taking the Trans-Siberian Railway back to England accompanied by his girlfriend! |
Ice cold water crossings
The Course
The race itself is not particularly technical but is physically demanding and the long distances do take a toll on riders. The back-to-back 170 km days are particularly difficult, leaving little time for recovery and preparation for the next day. Racing involves riding in groups and, for many, long periods of time riding solo. But the Mongolian Bike Challenge is not just about riding a bike but about how you prepare for the following day. After crossing the finishing line the event is far from finished. A cool down is preferable but not always possible, recovery drinks need to be consumed and food eaten immediately to make use of the body’s ability to most effectively re-absorb carbohydrates. A shower needs to be taken and bike clothes quickly removed and washed ready for the following days. Then the bike needs to be cleaned and checked for any mechanical problems. A select few were lucky enough to have been able to pay for full bike maintenance and massage every day. After the presentation ceremony and a healthy and substantial dinner it would be hoped a good night’s sleep would follow, be it in touristic gers, cabins or, more usually, in eight man tents but this meant night time was invariably accompanied by a chorus of snoring and coughing.
Three-Man Croc Team: Peter, Jiri and Phil
My Experience
The race was certainly very tough and I had my fair share of obstacles to overcome. I almost didn’t enter Mongolia, a last minute trip to collect my British passport allowing me to enter the country without a visa. The day before the first stage, I was thirty seconds into a training ride with Hans Planckaert, and while looking up at the statue of Chinggis Khan’s mother, and travelling downhill on a smooth trail, a gaping hole suddenly appeared, too late for me to react to. As my front forks fully compressed, I was launched over the handlebars landing heavily on my right shoulder, breaking the bottle cage from my saddle. I was cut and severely bruised and regular painkillers were necessary for the duration of the race. Indeed, I was unable to lift the handlebars nor was I able to drop off rock steps without stabbing pain. A more technical race would have certainly led to my withdrawal. Furthermore, the freezing starts on the first two days led to breathing difficulties and I struggled with my asthma. I resorted to ventolin in the later stages, but choking dust meant I was riddled with a hacking cough for the duration of the race. During the last two stages, saddle rash meant excrutiating pain on sitting. I also needed to adapt to carrying just a single drink bottle, with my extra bottle cages ejecting my second bottle every time I descended along rougher ground. This meant drinking a whole bottle of water at drink stations in an attempt to stay hydrated. I managed to finish 6th in my age category and 24th overall, while my three-man Croc Team eventually finished third, after leading for the first two stages.
Freezing river crossings and swamps were common on Day 2 and 3
Organization
Mongolia is an incredibly difficult place to organize an event of this nature and racing incorporates a strong sense of adventure. Mongolian Bike Challenge Founder and Race Director, Willy Mulonia, has gathered together an excellent team, consisting of logistics, photographic personnel, drivers, medical staff, mechanics and masseuses. It is fair to say, that not everything ran perfectly but, considering the scope of the event and the difficulties of racing in the Mongolian landscape, the race was a phenomenal success. The mechanics, headed by the multi-talented Jordi, worked tirelessly, the medical staff stayed calm and professional despite having to deal with major problems such as broken bones, punctured lungs and heat exhaustion. Videos, photographs and race reports made it out every night on the website, although most of the competitors were unaware of this happening. Several riders did take wrong turns but would eventually find the right road, while daily postings of the results were sorely missed. The food, on the whole, was excellent, with Rosewood’s catering on two of the days particularly popular. On a couple of occasions, the food was sparse and so the recommendation, pre-race, to take a selection of snack items was thoroughly welcomed. There was little or no phone and internet access, but this is understandable, considering the extremely remote location. The start and finish locations at the Chinggis Khan monument and the 13th century Camp were excellent, as was the superb entertainment before the first day and particularly during the final celebration. The shamen fire dance, the amazing contortionist and the traditional music and singing will stay long in the memory.
A rare bridge crossing
Khan Warfare
| Willy Mulonia, stated that this was the most successful race yet. This was due in part to the incredibly close racing at the top end of the field. Cory Wallace, from Canada, was seeking his third Mongolian Bike Race Victory but was pushed to the very end by the enigmatic Nicholas Pettina. The following story is quite incredible, one I first heard at the back of the bus as we travelled to the Chinggis Khan Monument. The day before we left the hotel to travel to the race start, bearded Italian rider Nicholas Pettina had decided to ride 70 km to the edge of the Gobi Desert and duly set off with a friend. After travelling part of the way, the friend thought better of this expedition and turned back to Ulaanbaatar, leaving Nic to travel all alone. He eventually arrived at the edge of the desert and took a number of photographs to prove his quest had been successful before embarking on the long return journey back to the hotel. |  Nicholas Pettina challenged Cory Wallace to the very end |
Nic took a different route to the one he had first travelled on but, he believed it would lead straight back to the city. Time evaporated quickly and the daylight hours began to fade. Darkness fell, and Nic was still no closer to the city. It was now dark and too dangerous to ride and so he was forced to push his bike up a hill to a nearby forest. At this point he knew he would not make it back to Ulaanbaatar and panic must have set in. It was becoming extremely cold and he had no extra clothing and certainly not the emergency blanket all riders needed to carry in the race. Fortunately, he spotted a fire burning ahead and, on investigation, he happened to come across four local Mongolians, who welcomed him and allowed him to sit by the fire. They covered him in a plastic sheet and fed him pine nuts. Despite the fire, he was still cold and with wolves howling in the surrounding forest he was unable to get any sleep. But he was still alive. The next morning he bid farewell to his life-saving hosts, who didn’t seem to understand his urgent desire to leave so he could join the other riders in Ulaanbaatar, who were now preparing to leave the hotel. Nevertheless, Nic was eventually pointed in the general direction of the city and he rode off with fresh hope. The city was soon in sight and he now knew he would soon be back at the hotel. At that moment, a Mongolian soldier stopped him at gunpoint. He had ridden straight into an army base. No matter how much Nic pleaded, the lack of communication meant that he was being treated as a suspected terrorist. The police were called out, and he was driven to Ulaanbaatar Police Station where he was able to call for assistance from the race organisers and was finally released on production of his passport. The final part of this story is perhaps even more amazing. Without sleep or food that night, he was able to not only compete in the first stage, but was to beat a strong field and win the opening day of this incredibly difficult bike race. In the end, Cory Wallace was to win overall honours but Nic was to finish a mere two and a half minutes behind.
Conclusion
The Mongolian Bike Race is an event I would wholeheartedly recommend to bike riders ready to undergo a uniquely different experience as well as a physically tough race. A number of riders were not able to finish for a multitude of reasons, while the majority suffered both physically and mentally. Be ready to jump into the hurt locker on several days but also keep your eyes wide open because that once-in-a-lifetime experience is never too far away. This is a race that will live long in the memory, while the friendships made are sure to endure in the same manner as the legend of Chinggis Khan.
The endless Steppe
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